Melasma: All Your Questions Answered Here 

Known for its brownish or greyish spots, melasma is a skin condition that can affect the self-esteem of those who have it. Find out everything you need to know about melasma. 

What is melasma? 

Melasma is a condition that causes skin hyperpigmentation due to an increase in melanin, which is the protein responsible for skin colour. Irregular dark brown or brownish-grey patches appear, most commonly on the face, but they can also develop on the chest and arms. These are divided into different types. 

What are the types of melasma? 

Grade 1 (Epidermal) 

This is the most recent stage, when the spots have been present for less than a year. They have a dark brown shade with well-defined edges. It affects the epidermis, which is the outermost layer of the skin. This type usually responds well to treatment. 

Grade 2 (Dermal) 

This stage occurs when the spots have been present for more than a year. They appear light brown or bluish-grey, with blurry, less-defined borders. Because the hyperpigmented cells are deeper in the skin, in the dermis, treatment takes longer. 

Grade 3 (Mixed) 

This stage is when the spots have been present for more than five years. It is the most severe form of the condition, showing brownish and bluish tones of varying sizes. It is also the most resistant to treatment. 

What causes melasma? 

The condition is chronic and can recur even after treatment. It is most common in women of reproductive age, between 20 and 50 years old — 90% of cases occur in women and only 10% in men. 

Risk Factors for Melasma 

There is no single main cause of melasma, but rather several factors that can trigger the condition. 

Although melasma can affect people of all ages and ethnic backgrounds, it is more common in women of childbearing age, especially those who are pregnant or use hormonal contraceptives.  

Adult Women 

In Brazil, between 15% and 35% of adult women are affected by skin pigmentation. This happens due to hormonal changes associated with pregnancy, the use of hormonal contraceptives, and hormone replacement therapy. 

Transgender individuals may also develop melasma since, during gender transition, hormonal therapy can increase the production of certain hormones, such as oestrogen, which can lead to melasma and other skin conditions. 

High Sun Exposure 

Excessive sun exposure is one of the main risk factors for melasma. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun stimulates melanin production in the skin, leading to the appearance of dark patches. 

Blue Light 

Blue light, such as that emitted by electronic devices, does not cause melasma but can increase pigmentation and alter collagen fibres — the structures responsible for maintaining the skin’s firmness and support, as well as that of bones and other tissues. 

Genetic Predisposition 

Having family members with melasma increases the likelihood of developing the condition. Genetic predisposition plays an important role in susceptibility to melasma. 

Race and Ethnicity 

People with higher levels of melanin in their skin are more likely to develop melasma, making it more common among those with darker skin tones. 

Diagnosis 

To diagnose melasma, a healthcare professional will assess your personal and family history, taking into account genetic information and lifestyle habits. In many cases, a Wood’s lamp examination is used to determine the degree of melasma. 

How to Identify Melasma with a Wood’s Lamp 

The Wood’s lamp emits ultraviolet (UV) light in the wavelength range of 320 to 400 nanometres. This light is invisible to the naked eye but can reveal certain skin conditions when it interacts with specific substances. 

It is important to note that using a Wood’s lamp to diagnose melasma is only part of the evaluation process. A complete diagnosis usually requires a detailed clinical examination. 

Does Melasma Have a Cure? 

Unfortunately, no — but it is possible to reduce dark patches through specific treatments for each case. A key element in every treatment is including a product with SPF and UVA protection in your daily routine. Only sunscreen can protect the skin from UV rays and, when combined with prescribed medication or treatment, help to fade the dark spots. 

Symptoms of Melasma 

As mentioned earlier, melasma begins with the appearance of dark, irregular patches, mainly on the face, but also on sun-exposed areas such as the neck and arms. The spots usually have irregular borders and vary in colour, ranging from light to dark brown. 

Does Melasma Itch? 

There is no discomfort, pain, or itching in the affected areas. However, worsening can occur if the temperature rises or the skin comes into contact with heat-producing items such as hairdryers or saunas. 

Remember that if you have melasma spots on your face, it is essential to protect your entire body. Sun exposure on areas without melasma can worsen existing patches. Although rare, melasma can appear on the back, neck, and hands, so body sunscreen is also essential. 

How to Prevent Melasma 

One of the main culprits behind the development of melasma is exposure to sunlight and visible light. Ultraviolet radiation not only penetrates deeply into the skin, causing damage, but also has a cumulative effect that leads to marks over time. 

Tropical countries like Brazil receive high levels of solar radiation throughout the year. However, despite this, 72.5% of the Brazilian population does not use sunscreen daily, according to the Institute of Cosmetology and Skin Sciences. This lack of protection contributes to the increasing number of cases of melasma. 

The best way to prevent melasma is to use sunscreen every day, even on cloudy or rainy days, and especially during hot and sunny weather. SPF helps to prevent direct solar radiation from affecting the skin cells, while also protecting collagen and elastin fibres that keep the skin firm and youthful. 

Another key point is to reapply sunscreen every two hours, as well as combine it with protective clothing and accessories such as hats, sunglasses and long-sleeved shirts. 

What Can Make Melasma Worse? 

Sun Exposure Without Protection 

Exposure to the sun triggers a natural response in the skin to protect itself from UV damage. This includes an increase in melanin production. In areas already affected by melasma, melanin production is unbalanced, resulting in darker spots. Sun exposure intensifies this overproduction, making the condition worse. 

To prevent melasma from worsening, sun protection is essential. Sunscreen acts as a physical or chemical barrier that absorbs or reflects UV rays, preventing them from penetrating the deeper layers of the skin and causing damage. 

Not Reapplying Sunscreen 

Failing to reapply sunscreen worsens melasma since its protective effect diminishes over time. 

The Brazilian Society of Dermatology (SBD) recommends reapplying sunscreen every two hours to ensure the skin does not fully absorb the product. If there is excessive sweating or contact with water, the interval between reapplications should be shortened. 

The correct amount of sunscreen also greatly influences the level of protection. 

It is important to apply and reapply sunscreen even on cloudy or rainy days and even when there is no direct sun exposure, as UV rays can penetrate clouds and glass. 

Using Inappropriate Products for Melasma 

One of the factors that can worsen melasma is using the wrong type of sunscreen. 

When choosing sunscreen for melasma, pay attention to the SPF. According to the SBD, people with melasma should use products with a protection factor of at least 50. 

In addition to SPF, it is essential that sunscreen for melasma also protects against UVA rays, which is often the case with tinted sunscreens. These products contain pigments that not only protect against sunlight but also against blue light. 

Always choose products suitable for your skin type to prevent other issues such as acne, blackheads and excess oil. Look for non-comedogenic products and avoid those with harsh or irritating ingredients. 

Ollie offers products with high UVA and UVB protection and active ingredients that care for the skin. 

Being Too Close to Heat Sources 

Heat sources can aggravate melasma, as they may increase the production of hormones such as oestrogen, which are linked to the development of the condition. 

A clear sign of this is that melasma often worsens during the summer. Other heat sources — such as hairdryers, ovens, stoves, or very hot showers — can also intensify pigmentation or make existing marks darker. 

A good tip is to always use sun protection to prevent worsening. 

Excessive Stress 

According to research, chronic stress is associated with a persistent inflammatory state in the body that activates certain genes, stimulating excess pigment production and worsening both melasma and vitiligo. 

Lack of Skin Hydration 

When the skin is dehydrated, its natural protective barrier becomes compromised. This makes it more susceptible to irritation and inflammation, which can worsen melasma. Dehydrated skin also appears dull and lacklustre, making dark spots more visible. 

Poor Diet 

An unhealthy diet can lead to deficiencies in essential nutrients for skin health — such as vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. These nutrients play a key role in regulating melanin production and protecting against damage from free radicals. 

Certain foods can worsen melasma, such as those high in sugar or ultra-processed items, as they contribute to increased inflammation in the body. 

What Is the Relationship Between Melasma and Liver Cleansing? 

Although this idea appears in non-scientific sources, such as beauty or wellness blogs, there is no clinical evidence to support a link between melasma and liver cleansing or detoxification. Therefore, the answer is no — liver cleansing does not cure or treat melasma. 

Is It Possible to “Deflate” Melasma? 

No, it is not possible. Melasma is not an inflammation, but a hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin production in certain areas of the skin. 

Melasma During Pregnancy 

Melasma during pregnancy — also known as chloasma or the “mask of pregnancy” — is a dermatological condition characterised by the appearance of dark, irregular patches on the skin, mainly on the face, but sometimes also on the neck and arms. These spots are usually brownish in colour and have an irregular shape resembling a mask, hence the name. 

The cause of melasma during pregnancy is related to hormonal factors, especially increased levels of oestrogen and progesterone during gestation. Sun exposure also plays a significant role, as UV radiation stimulates melanin production — the pigment that gives skin its colour. 

It is important to note that melasma is not harmful to health, but it can cause aesthetic discomfort for some women. The spots often darken during pregnancy and may persist after childbirth. 

How to Prevent Melasma During Pregnancy 

Sun protection

Using sunscreen with high SPF and protecting the skin with clothing, hats and sunglasses is crucial to prevent worsening of melasma due to sun exposure. 

Avoid excessive sun exposure

Staying out of the sun during peak hours and on very sunny days can help reduce the risk of developing or worsening melasma. 

Skin care

The use of skin-lightening creams or ointments may be recommended by a dermatologist. However, these should only be used under medical supervision, especially during pregnancy, to ensure safety. 

It is important to highlight that melasma during pregnancy can be persistent and, in some cases, may not disappear completely after childbirth. Therefore, consulting a dermatologist is essential for proper management and safe treatment during and after pregnancy. 

What Is the Best Sunscreen for Melasma? 

When choosing sunscreen for melasma, consider the following points: 

1. Check the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) 

SPF indicates the level of protection against UVB rays, which are responsible for causing sunburn. For people with melasma, the Brazilian Society of Dermatology recommends an SPF 50+ to prevent UVB rays from stimulating melanin production through sunburn. 

In addition to SPF, it is essential that sunscreen for melasma also offers UVA protection. UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin, worsening pigmentation and contributing to premature ageing. Make sure the sunscreen label specifies “broad spectrum” or “UVA and UVB protection.” 

2. Prefer Tinted Sunscreen 

Tinted sunscreen is a great ally in treating melasma — here’s why: 

It creates an extra layer of protection 
Tinted sunscreens contain pigments that not only protect against sunlight but also against blue light. The pigment, usually composed of iron oxides, absorbs visible radiation and minimises the effects of light exposure. In other words, the pigment creates an additional layer of defence while evening out skin tone — making it an excellent sunscreen choice for faces affected by melasma. 

It offers both physical and chemical protection 
This type of product provides dual protection. The physical protection comes from mineral pigments like zinc oxide, which reflect sunlight and act as a physical barrier, preventing UV rays from reaching the skin. The chemical filters, on the other hand, absorb and dissipate UV radiation. 
This combination of physical and chemical protection is more effective in preventing melasma, as it blocks sunlight before it can trigger melanin production. 

Lightening treatments can sometimes dry or irritate the skin — moisturising helps to minimise irritation and sensitivity. 

Avoid Irritating Products 

Avoid skincare products that contain alcohol, strong fragrances, or abrasive exfoliants. These can make the skin more sensitive and worsen melasma. 

What Is the Best Product to Lighten Melasma? 

There are several active ingredients that can help lighten melasma spots. Here are the most common ones: 

Hydroquinone 

Hydroquinone is one of the most effective ingredients for lightening melasma. It works by inhibiting melanin production and can lighten dark spots caused by acne, pregnancy, psoriasis, eczema, and other conditions. 
It is available in gel or cream form, typically in concentrations of 2% to 5%. 

Medical supervision is necessary both for prescribing and for monitoring results. 

Kojic Acid 

Kojic acid is a gentle lightening agent that inhibits melanin production. Found in various dermocosmetic products, it is derived from fungi and has a strong depigmenting effect. It blocks tyrosine, an amino acid required for melanin synthesis. 

Glycolic Acid 

Better known than the previous two, glycolic acid helps reduce melasma because it is a mild exfoliant that improves skin texture and reduces the appearance of pigmentation. 

It works by encouraging the removal of excess pigment from the skin, improving the appearance of dark spots. It is also recommended for acne-prone skin, as it unclogs pores and removes dead cells. 

Niacinamide 

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, helps reduce skin pigmentation and improve tone uniformity while strengthening the skin barrier. 

Vitamin C 

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps reduce dark spots and protect against sun damage. It promotes an even skin tone, stimulates collagen production, and, when used with sunscreen, enhances the skin’s defence against UV rays. 

A great tip is to combine lightening ingredients with sun protection for a more practical and effective routine. 

Home Remedies for Melasma 

Across the internet, there are countless suggestions for home remedies for melasma — such as applying aloe vera, rosehip oil, and other natural ingredients. However, it is important to keep in mind that although these may seem like cheaper or more convenient options, home treatments lack scientific backing. 

Many of these popular remedies are based on folk traditions or cultural beliefs, but they have not been subjected to rigorous clinical studies to confirm their safety or effectiveness. 

Some so-called home treatments — such as applying lemon juice, bicarbonate of soda, or vinegar directly to the skin — can be irritating and inflammatory, worsening melasma instead of improving it. They can also cause allergic reactions that make the condition more uncomfortable and may even delay proper treatment. 

Therefore, always consult a dermatologist to find the right treatment for your melasma. 
Do not trust “quick-fix” methods that promise to lighten facial skin overnight — seek qualified professional guidance for an accurate diagnosis and safe, effective results. Agreed? 

Sun Protection and Ollie 

Ollie offers an incredible range of products with SPF that help you protect your skin from the sun and prevent melasma.  

The Tinted Sunscreen Stick is the ideal sun protection for anyone with melasma. With SPF 50+, UVA Protection Factor 40 and vitamin E, it has a velvety touch and medium coverage similar to foundation. It’s suitable for all skin types, softens acne and melasma marks, and leaves a smooth, matte finish.